Metal Types and Care Instructions

GOLD PLATED AND GOLD FILLED

Gold Plated
  • Gold plated jewellery involves a thin layer of gold applied onto the surface of a base metal, often through electroplating.
  • The layer of gold in gold plated jewellery is relatively thin and can wear off over time and with use.
  • Gold plated jewellery is generally more affordable than solid gold or gold filled jewellery.
  • Care should be taken to avoid exposure to moisture, chemicals, and abrasion to prolong the plating's appearance.
14K Gold Plated

Description: A thicker layer of 14K gold plating.
Pros: Enhanced durability compared to standard gold plating.
Cons: Plating can still wear off over time.
Care: Gently clean with a soft cloth, avoid abrasive materials.

18K Gold Plated

Description: A thicker layer of 18K gold plating.
Pros: Rich colour, more durable than lower karat plating.
Cons: Plating may eventually fade.
Care: Gently clean with a soft cloth, avoid abrasive materials.

Gold Filled
  • Gold filled jewellery has a thicker layer of gold bonded to a base metal core through a mechanical bonding process.
  • The layer of gold in gold filled jewellery is significantly thicker than in gold plated jewellery, making it more durable and longer - lasting.
  • Gold filled jewellery is considered a higher quality and more valuable option compared to gold plated jewellery.
  • It is more resistant to tarnish and wear, and its appearance can last for many years with proper care.
  • Gold filled jewellery is often labeled with the karat of the gold layer (e.g., 14KGF) to indicate the quality.
  • To care for gold filled jewellery, clean it gently with a soft cloth and avoid exposure to harsh chemicals.

In summary, the key difference between gold plated and gold filled jewellery lies in the thickness of the gold layer and the durability of the piece. Gold plated jewellery has a thinner gold layer that can wear off relatively quickly, while gold filled jewellery has a thicker and more durable gold layer that lasts longer and retains its appearance with proper care.

PLATING

Plating Processes

Electroplating versus PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition)

Electroplating and PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) are distinct processes with different mechanisms and outcomes.

Electroplating
Involves using an electric current to deposit a metal coating onto a surface from a solution containing metal ions. It's a chemical process where metal ions are reduced to form a thin layer on the surface. This method is widely used for coating items with metals like gold, silver, or chrome. 
PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) 
Is a vacuum coating process where a material (metal or non-metal) is vaporised into a plasma and then condensed onto a surface to form a thin film. This process occurs in a high vacuum environment without the use of an electrolytic solution.

While both processes aim to apply a layer of material onto a surface, they operate on fundamentally different principles and utilise different equipment and techniques.

Pros and Cons

Electroplating

Advantages

Can achieve thicker coatings, good for intricate designs, can be cost-effective for certain metals like gold and silver.

Disadvantages

Limited to certain metals, can be prone to wear and tarnishing over time, less environmentally friendly due to chemical usage.

PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition)

Advantages 

Creates thin, durable coatings that are highly resistant to wear, corrosion, and tarnish, environmentally friendly process with minimal waste.


Disadvantages 

Typically more expensive than electroplating, requires specialised equipment, may not be suitable for all metals.

In general, PVD coatings are often considered superior for their durability, resistance to wear, and environmental benefits.

 

HYPOALLERGENIC METALS

If you're allergic to nickel, it's important to choose jewellery that is hypoallergenic and unlikely to cause an allergic reaction. Hypoallergenic metals are those that are less likely to cause allergic reactions in people with sensitive skin or metal allergies.

Here are some hypoallergenic metals commonly used in jewellery making: are some options to consider.

Stainless Steel

Look for high-quality, surgical-grade stainless steel jewellery. Good stainless steel jewellery is typically hypoallergenic because it contains little to no nickel. Look for stainless steel labelled as "316L" or "316LVM."

Titanium

Titanium is often used in medical implants due to its hypoallergenic properties. Titanium jewellery is a safe option for those with nickel allergies.  It's lightweight, durable, and comes in various colours through anodising.  

Tungsten

Tungsten carbide is used for wedding bands and other jewellery. While it can contain nickel, reactions are rare due to the metal's hardness and protective oxide layer.

 
Nobium

Niobium is another hypoallergenic metal that is often used in jewellery, especially for body piercings. It's a good choice for sensitive skin and is available in a variety of colours.

Platinum

Platinum is a precious metal that is naturally hypoallergenic and suitable for those with nickel allergies. However, it can be more expensive. It's an excellent choice for sensitive skin and is resistant to tarnish.

Gold

Yellow gold can come in various karats, including 24K (pure gold), 22K, 18K, 14K, and 10K. The karat indicates the purity of the gold, with higher karats representing higher gold content. While pure gold (24K) is hypoallergenic, it's quite soft for jewellery. Opt for 18K or 14K gold, which often contain lower levels of nickel.

Sterling Silver 

While sterling silver contains some amount of nickel, it is usually a small amount and doesn't cause issues for most people with nickel allergies.


Argentium Silver 

This type of sterling silver contains a small amount of germanium, which enhances its hypoallergenic properties and reduces tarnishing. It is purer than standard Sterling (940 or 960 parts per 1000),has increased tarnish resistance, a whiter colour. It has antibacterial and hypoallergenic properties and a firestain-free surface.

Fine Silver

Fine silver (99.9% pure) is generally hypoallergenic and less likely to cause reactions compared to sterling silver.


24K Gold

Pure gold is hypoallergenic, but it's quite soft for jewellery. It's best mixed with other metals to improve durability.

Palladium

A member of the platinum group metals, palladium is hypoallergenic and offers a similar look to white gold.

Copper

While some people can be sensitive to copper, it's hypoallergenic for many and is often used as a base metal for jewellery.

Plastic or Acrylic

For costume or fashion jewellery, plastic or acrylic pieces can be a hypoallergenic option.

Wood or Natural Materials 

Jewellery made from wood, leather, or other natural materials can also be suitable for those with nickel allergies.

Fabric or String Jewellery 

Pieces made with fabric or string, like fabric bracelets or necklaces, can be a good choice for avoiding nickel exposure.

Glass or Ceramic 

These materials are generally hypoallergenic and can be used to make attractive jewellery.


It's important to note that everyone's skin is different, and while some people are highly sensitive to certain metals, others may have no reaction at all. If you have known metal allergies or sensitivities, it's wise to choose jewellery made from hypoallergenic metals and high-quality materials.

 

METALS COMMONLY USED IN JEWELLERY

Here's a brief overview of the metals commonly used in jewellery, along with their descriptions, pros, cons, and care tips.

Stainless Steel

Description: Stainless steel is a corrosion-resistant alloy of iron, chromium and, in some cases, nickel and other metals and has a sleek appearance.
Pros: Durable, resistant to tarnish and corrosion, hypoallergenic.
Cons: Not as valuable as precious metals.
Care: Wipe with a clean, damp cloth. Avoid exposure to harsh chemicals. 

Stainless Steel PVD Gold Plated

Description: Stainless steel coated with a layer of genuine gold using PVD.
Pros: Durable, scratch-resistant, affordable alternative to solid gold.
Cons: Requires specialised care to maintain PVD coating.
Care: Gently clean with a soft cloth and mild soap, avoid abrasive materials.

    Stainless Steel PVD Titanium

    Description:  Stainless steel coated with a layer of titanium using Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD).
    Pros: Durable, scratch-resistant, hypoallergenic.
    Cons: Requires specialised care to maintain PVD coating.
    Care: Gently clean with a soft cloth, avoid abrasive materials.

    925 Sterling Silver

    Description: A precious metal alloy containing 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals.
    Pros: Lustrous, timeless, hypoallergenic.
    Cons: Prone to tarnishing, requires occasional polishing.
    Care: Store in a dry, airtight place, polish with a soft cloth. 

    Sterling Silver 18K Gold Plated

    Description: 925 sterling silver with a layer of 18K gold plating.
    Pros: Combines the beauty of gold with the durability of sterling silver.
    Cons: Plating may eventually wear off.
    Care: Store in a dry place, polish gently with a soft cloth.

    Tibetan Silver

    Description: Alloy resembling silver, often darker, with a rustic or antique look.
    Pros: Antique appearance, intricate designs.
    Cons: Not pure silver, may tarnish.
    Care: Gently clean with a soft cloth, avoid harsh chemicals.

    Titanium 18K Gold Plated

    Description: Titanium base with an 18K gold plating.
    Pros: Durable, lightweight, hypoallergenic.
    Cons: PVD coating may require specialised care.
    Care: Gently clean with a soft cloth, avoid abrasive materials.

    Iron Alloy

    Description: Mixture of iron with other elements, commonly used for affordability.
    Pros: Affordable, malleable for intricate designs.
    Cons: Prone to rust, not as durable as other metals.
    Care: Keep dry to prevent rusting, store in a dry place.  

    Zinc Alloy

    Description: Blend of zinc with other metals.
    Pros: Versatile for intricate designs, lightweight.
    Cons: May tarnish over time.
    Care: Avoid exposure to moisture and chemicals.

      Copper

      Description: Pure metal known for its reddish-brown hue and malleability.
      Pros: Warm tone, malleable for intricate designs.
      Cons: Prone to tarnish, may cause skin discolouration in some individuals.
      Care: Polish with a soft cloth, store in a dry place.  

      Copper Alloy

      Description: Mix of copper with other metals, balancing properties for different applications.
      Pros: Versatile, affordable, suitable for various styles.
      Cons: May tarnish or cause skin discolouration.
      Care: Polish regularly, avoid exposure to moisture. 

      Copper Plated with Platinum

      Description: Copper base with a platinum plating for enhanced durability.
      Pros: Enhanced durability and tarnish resistance.
      Cons: Plating may wear off over time.
      Care: Gently clean with a soft cloth, avoid abrasive materials.

      Copper 14K Gold Plated

      Description: Copper base with a layer of 14K gold plating.
      Pros: Offers the appearance of gold at a lower cost.
      Cons: Plating can wear off over time.
      Care: Gently clean with a soft cloth, avoid abrasive materials.

        Brass

        Description: Alloy of copper and zinc, prized for its vintage appearance.
        Pros: Vintage appeal, affordable, versatile.
        Cons: May tarnish, may cause skin reactions in some individuals.
        Care: Polish with a brass cleaner or lemon juice and water mixture.

        Yellow Gold

        Description: A pure and classic gold colour.
        Pros: Timeless, versatile, elegant.
        Cons: Can be softer and more prone to scratches compared to other gold alloys.
        Care: Clean with mild soap and water, store away from abrasive surfaces.

        14K Gold

        Description: 14K gold is 58.3% pure gold and 41.7% other metals.
        Pros: Durable and affordable with a rich color.
        Cons: May cause allergic reactions.
        Care: Clean with mild soap and a soft cloth.

        18K Gold

        Description: A high-quality gold alloy containing 75% gold and other metals.
        Pros: Luxurious, durable, less prone to tarnish.
        Cons: Generally more expensive than lower karat gold.
        Care: Clean gently with mild soap and water, store carefully.

        These descriptions provide a general overview of each metal's characteristics. When purchasing or caring for jewellery, it's important to follow the specific care instructions provided by the manufacturer to ensure the longevity and beauty of your pieces.

        METAL ALLERGY

        Several metals are known to cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals due to the presence of allergenic compounds. Common skin irritants in jewellery include:

        Nickel 

        Nickel is one of the most common allergens and can cause contact dermatitis in many people. It's often found in lower-quality jewellery and can lead to redness, itching, and rash.

        Cobalt 

        Cobalt is often used in alloying metals, including some white gold alloys. It can cause skin reactions similar to nickel.

        Brass 

        Brass contains copper and zinc and may cause skin discolouration or irritation in some individuals.

        Bronze 

        Bronze is an alloy of copper and other metals, and its copper content can lead to skin reactions for those sensitive to copper.

        Base Metal Alloys 

        Various base metal alloys used in fashion jewellery may contain nickel or other skin irritants.

        Some White Gold Alloys 

        Some white gold alloys contain nickel or other metals that can trigger allergic reactions.

        Aluminium 

        While less common, some individuals may experience skin reactions to aluminium, especially if it comes into prolonged contact with the skin.

        In jewellery making, copper is often alloyed with other metals to create brass or bronze, which are commonly used for various types of jewellery. The primary concern with copper jewellery is that prolonged and direct skin contact can lead to skin discolouration or irritation, particularly in individuals with sensitive skin or allergies.

        To address these concerns, jewellery makers often use coatings, plating, or sealing techniques to minimise direct skin contact with copper. Additionally, many jewellery pieces made from copper or copper alloys are designed to be worn as decorative items rather than coming into prolonged contact with the skin.

        Make sure your jewellery is made of surgical-grade stainless steel or either 14 -, 18 - or 24 - karat yellow gold. White gold may contain nickel. Other nickel-free metals include pure sterling silver, copper, platinum, and titanium.

        GLOSSARY

        Alloy

        An alloy is a mixture of two or more metals or a metal and another element, created to enhance properties like strength, durability, or resistance to corrosion, resulting in a material with unique characteristics not found in the individual components. For example, brass is an alloy of two metals: copper and zinc.

        PVD

        PVD stands for "Physical Vapour Deposition". It is a thin film deposition technique used to create coatings on various materials, including metals, plastics, ceramics, and glass. In the context of jewellery and metal plating, PVD is often used to apply durable and decorative coatings, such as gold, silver, or other metals, onto the surface of jewellery items. This process enhances the appearance, durability, and sometimes hypoallergenic properties of the coated jewellery.


        Anodise

        Electrochemical process that enhances metal surfaces for durability, corrosion resistance, and colour variation. Anodising is commonly used in various industries, including jewellery making, aerospace, automotive, and architectural applications, to improve the appearance, durability, and functionality of metal surfaces.